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Technical Ascent of Ama Dablam

  • 24 days
  • 6,812 m max
  • strenuous
  • Up to 12
  • Autumn (Sep–Nov) & Spring (Mar–May)
4.8

We lead an intensive 24-day technical expedition to the 6,812 m summit of Ama Dablam in the Khumbu region.

At a glance

Trip overview

At 6,812 m above sea level, Ama Dablam is far from the highest peak in the Himalayas, yet our team regards it as one of the most rewarding technical challenges in Nepal. The climbing demands proficiency in steep rock, ice, and mixed alpine terrain across exposed ridges. We design our 24-day expedition schedule with dedicated rotation climbs to Camp 1 and Camp 2 to ensure proper physiological adaptation before our summit push.

Our logistics in the Khumbu region are managed directly by our experienced Sherpa team, drawing on decades of high-altitude rescue and guiding experience. We bypass the traditional higher camp sites near the hanging glacier, opting instead for a streamlined two-camp strategy on the southwestern ridge to minimize objective risks. This approach balances efficiency with rigorous safety protocols established by our lead mountaineering directors.

This expedition suits seasoned mountaineers who possess solid rock and ice climbing credentials and want to test their skills on a world-class granite pyramid. While the technical difficulties are sustained, our low client-to-guide ratio and continuous radio communication maintain a secure environment from our basecamp up to the summit ridges.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — hero

Why this trek

Trip highlights

  • 6,812 m Summit

    We tackle the steep granite and ice ridges of Ama Dablam, culminating at the prominent 6,812 m summit.

  • Two-Camp Strategy

    We utilize a safer two-camp rotation on the southwestern ridge, avoiding vulnerable zones beneath the hanging glacier.

  • Khumbu Approach

    We trek through Phakding and Namche Bazaar, crossing suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi river.

  • Expert Sherpa Team

    Our lead guides and climbing Sherpas manage fixed lines, route preparation, and daily high-altitude logistics.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

Meals: B

We welcome you upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to our Kathmandu hotel. Our team assists with equipment checks and settling in after your international flight.

Day 2

Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu

Meals: B / L / D

Today we conduct a comprehensive briefing regarding the expedition logistics, emergency procedures, and weather patterns. Our guides inspect your personal climbing hardware and layers while we finalize government paperwork.

Day 3

Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding

Meals: B / L / D

We board an early morning mountain flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla (2,840 m). After meeting our porters, we begin our trek along the Dudh Koshi valley, descending gently through pine forests to reach Phakding.

Day 4

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Meals: B / L / D

The trail crosses several suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi river before entering Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. A sustained uphill pull brings us through pine woods to Namche Bazaar, our main trading hub in the Khumbu.

Day 5

Rest in Namche

Meals: B / L / D

We spend today in Namche Bazaar to aid acclimatisation. Our team leads an optional hike to higher viewpoints above the village to help your body adapt to the rising altitude.

Day 6

Trek to Debuche (3700 m) via Tengbouche Monastery

Meals: B / L / D

We contour out of Namche before descending to the Dudh Koshi at Phunki Thenga. A steady forest climb leads us to Tengbouche Monastery, after which we drop slightly through birch and rhododendron woods to Debuche (3,700 m).

Day 7

Trek to Ama Dablam basecamp

Meals: B / L / D

We turn off the main Everest highway, following a quieter path toward the foot of Ama Dablam. Our team establishes our seasonal basecamp, setting up dining and sleeping tents beneath the towering south face.

Day 8

Rest day at Basecamp

Meals: B / L / D

Today is dedicated to rest and hydration at basecamp. We conduct a light acclimatisation walk nearby to keep our legs active without overexerting.

Day 9

Training Day

Meals: B / L / D

Our guides run a practical training session on fixed lines, ascenders, and rappelling techniques. We review movement on rock and ice to ensure everyone is synchronized before moving onto the mountain.

Day 10

Climb to Camp 1

Meals: B / L / D

We leave basecamp and ascend the rocky lower ridges of Ama Dablam. The terrain becomes steeper as we scramble over granite slabs to establish ourselves at Camp 1.

Day 11

Get to Camp 2 and come back to Camp 1 again

Meals: B / L / D

We push upward from Camp 1 across technical ridges and mixed rock to reach the exposed Camp 2 site. After evaluating the route and resting briefly, we descend back to Camp 1 for the night.

Day 12

Trek from Camp 1 back to base camp

Meals: B / L / D

We pack up our high-altitude gear from Camp 1 and retrace our steps down the rocky rib back to basecamp. Here we enjoy hot meals and allow our bodies to recover.

Day 13

Rest Day

Meals: B / L / D

We take a full rest day at basecamp to eat, sleep, and monitor weather forecasts. Recovery is critical before launching our final summit rotation.

Day 14

Rest Day

Meals: B / L / D

A second consecutive rest day allows for deep recovery and mental preparation. Our team checks all supplemental oxygen systems and radios.

Day 15

Climb to Camp 1, rest few hours and get to camp 2

Meals: B / L / D

We begin our summit rotation by climbing back up to Camp 1. After a brief rest and hydration window, we continue upward along the technical ridges to sleep at Camp 2.

Day 16

Climb to Ama Dablam Summit and back to Camp 1

Meals: B / L / D

We start well before dawn, navigating the steep snow slopes and exposed ridges leading to the 6,812 m summit. After taking time for photos and checking conditions, we descend carefully back down to Camp 1.

Day 17

Trek back to Basecamp

Meals: B / L / D

We pack our remaining gear at Camp 1 and descend the final stretches of the route back to basecamp. We celebrate a successful climb with our kitchen and climbing crew.

Day 18

Contingency Day

Meals: B / L / D

We hold this contingency day in reserve to manage potential weather delays or additional rest requirements.

Day 19

Contingency Day

Meals: B / L / D

An extra safety buffer day allocated for unfavorable meteorological conditions or slower acclimatisation rates.

Day 20

Contingency Day

Meals: B / L / D

Our final contingency slot ensures our expedition schedule remains flexible and unhurried.

Day 21

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Meals: B / L / D

We pack up basecamp and join the downward trail, retracing our route past Pangboche and Tengbouche down to Namche Bazaar.

Day 22

Trek to Lukla

Meals: B / L / D

Our final day of trekking takes us down the steep stone steps to the Dudh Koshi valley and back up to Lukla. We spend our final evening in the mountains with our support staff.

Day 23

Fly to Kathmandy and transfer to hotel

Meals: B / L / D

We catch an early morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu. Our transport takes you to the hotel where you can rest and unpack.

Day 24

Rest day in Kathmandu

Meals: B

We keep today free in Kathmandu for personal errands, souvenir shopping, or a celebratory evening dinner with the expedition team.

Inclusions

What’s included

Included

  • Airport pickup on arrival
  • Twin-share hotel accommodation in Kathmandu
  • Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
  • All meals and tented accommodation during trek and basecamp
  • Experienced IFMGA lead guides and climbing Sherpas
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permits

Not included

  • International airfare
  • Nepal entry visa
  • Travel insurance covering high-altitude mountain rescue
  • Personal climbing clothing and technical gear

Before you go

Good to know

Technical Requirements

Ama Dablam is a serious technical peak. Climbers must be comfortable ascending and descending vertical rock, snow, and ice using ascenders and figure-eight devices on fixed ropes.

Acclimatisation Schedule

Our itinerary includes structured rotation climbs to Camp 1 and Camp 2. This gradual exposure to high altitude gives your body time to adapt safely.

Weather and Seasons

We run our expeditions during stable autumn and spring windows when wind speeds on the upper ridges are manageable. Mountain weather can change quickly, which is why we include contingency days.

Insurance and Rescue

All participants must carry comprehensive travel insurance that explicitly covers mountaineering and emergency helicopter evacuation up to 7,000 m.

Route

Route overview

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — altitude profile

Altitude

Altitude profile

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — route map

Pack list

What to pack

  • Mountaineering bootsEssential

    Footwear

    Double or triple insulated boots suitable for extreme cold.

  • Down suitEssential

    Clothing

    Rated for high altitude and sub-zero temperatures.

  • Climbing harnessEssential

    Safety

    Adjustable alpine harness with gear loops.

  • CramponsEssential

    Footwear

    Step-in steel crampons compatible with your mountaineering boots.

  • Ice axeEssential

    Safety

    Technical mountaineering ice axe.

  • HelmetEssential

    Safety

    UIAA approved climbing helmet for rockfall protection.

  • Sleeping bagEssential

    Camping

    Rated to at least -20°C.

  • HeadlampEssential

    Clothing

    Extra batteries and high lumen output for pre-dawn starts.

Paperwork

Permits & paperwork

We arrange

Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.
  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

    Permit

    Required for entering the protected area of the Khumbu.

  • Local Municipality Permit

    Permit

    Khumbu Pasang Lhamu rural municipality tax.

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

What climbing experience is required for Ama Dablam?

You must have solid mountaineering experience, including proficiency in rock climbing, crampon use on steep ice, and safe movement on fixed ropes.

How many camps do you use on the mountain?

We utilize a two-camp strategy on the southwestern ridge to minimize exposure to objective hazards beneath the hanging glacier.

What is the client-to-guide ratio?

We maintain a low climber-to-guide ratio to ensure personalized attention and safety on technical sections.

What happens if flights to Lukla are delayed?

We build contingency days into our schedule to absorb weather-related flight delays in Lukla.

Is supplemental oxygen included?

Yes, our high-altitude logistics include supplemental oxygen systems for use during the summit rotation if required.

What kind of accommodation is provided at basecamp?

We set up comfortable dining tents and individual sleeping tents at basecamp, complemented by our dedicated kitchen crew.

Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.

Book your trip

Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 24 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.

October 2026
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