Mera And Island Peaks Climbing Via Amphu Laptsa

We welcome you upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport and escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Our team conducts a complete pre-trip briefing and checks your climbing equipment.

We spend today organizing gear, securing final permits, and managing any last-minute administrative requirements for the expedition. You can leave excess luggage at the hotel storage.

We depart early on a 265 km road journey lasting 7 to 8 hours to reach Phaplu at 2,413 m. The route follows mountain highways through rural settlements.

We take a short drive to Khari Khola before beginning our 3 to 4 hour trek across a distance of 12 km to Panggom at 2,846 m. The trail winds past Buddhist chortens and dense pine forests.

We leave Panggom and cross the Khari La pass before descending through rhododendron woods toward Ningsow. The day involves steady forest walking over several hours.

We trek northward from Ningsow along rising trails that offer our first close views of the Hongu basin drainage. We camp or stay in basic teahouses at Chalay Kharka.

We navigate ridge paths and river valleys today, descending gradually until we reach the settlement of Kothe. The surrounding valley walls begin to close in as we gain elevation.

We follow the west bank of the Inkhu Khola upward, passing summer grazing pastures and yak kharkas. We arrive at Thaknak in time for lunch and afternoon rest.

We climb past the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier and ascend a steep path to reach Khare at 4,950 m. The towering rock faces of Mera Peak dominate the skyline ahead.

We spend a dedicated day in Khare to practice glacier travel techniques, fixed-line ascent, and use of crampons and ice axes under our lead guides' supervision.

We climb a rocky trail over the Mera La pass and descend slightly to establish our base camp on the moraine. The thin air requires a slow, deliberate pace.

We make a short but steep climb over snow and scree to reach Mera High Camp at around 5,800 m. We rest early in preparation for the midnight summit push.

We start climbing well before dawn in sub-zero temperatures, traversing the glacier to reach the summit ridge of Mera Peak at 6,476 m. After taking in the panorama, we descend all the way back to Khare.

We retrace our steps down the Inkhu Valley, enjoying the relative comfort of thicker air as we descend back to Kothe.

We turn off the main valley floor and climb steeply toward Thuli Kharka through dense forests and upland clearings.

We cross the Zatrwa La pass and journey deeper into the remote Hongu basin toward the foot of the Amphu Laptsa pass.

We tackle the technical crossing of the Amphu Laptsa Pass at 5,780 m, utilizing fixed ropes and descending glacial ledges into the upper Imja Valley.

We rest and recover at Island Peak Base Camp, checking our climbing hardware and conserving energy for the upcoming second summit attempt.

We scramble up the rocky trail over the southern moraine of the Lhotse Glacier to establish our high camp on Island Peak.

We ascend steep rock gullies and cross a narrow ridge before climbing the exposed snow wall to the summit of Island Peak at 6,189 m. We then descend safely to Chhukung.

We keep this day in reserve as a buffer against poor weather or unexpected delays during our high-altitude climbing operations.

We complete our final trekking miles down the valley or catch an internal mountain flight connection, returning toward lower elevations.

We conclude our journey with arrival back in Kathmandu, where you can relax, celebrate your summits, and enjoy a final evening with our team.