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Lhotse Expedition via Everest Route

  • 52 days
  • extreme
  • Up to 12
  • Spring (April–May)
4.7

We lead a 52-day technical expedition to the 8,516 m summit of Lhotse, climbing via the Geneva Spur and the standard South Face route.

At a glance

Trip overview

Standing at 8,516 m, Lhotse is the world's fourth-highest mountain and shares its initial approach through the Khumbu Valley with Everest. While the early trekking stages follow the familiar trail past Namche Bazaar and Tengboche Monastery to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m, the climb itself diverges sharply onto the Geneva Spur. From here, our route attacks the steep face leading to the final technical challenge: a narrow, 150 m gully guarding the summit ridge.

This 52-day expedition requires significant high-altitude mountaineering experience and a proven background on 7,000 m peaks. We build a comprehensive acclimatisation schedule into the itinerary, allowing ample time for rotations through the icefall and camps on the mountain before launching our summit bids.

Our logistics are managed directly by our experienced Sherpa team, who handle route-fixing, high-altitude nutrition, and oxygen supplies. We maintain strict safety protocols, ensuring comprehensive medical back-up and emergency evacuation plans are in place for every rotation.

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — gallery 3

Why this trek

Trip highlights

  • 8,516 m Summit

    Climb the world's fourth-highest peak via the classic South Face route and Geneva Spur.

  • Technical Gully Finish

    Navigate the steep 150 m couloir leading directly to the narrow summit ridge.

  • Extended Base Camp

    Establish a fully-supported base camp at 5,364 m with dedicated dining, communication, and sleeping tents.

  • Experienced Sherpa Team

    Climb alongside our senior guides and climbing Sherpas with multiple 8,000 m summits.

Day-by-day itinerary

Day 1

Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

Meals: B

We welcome you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to our partner hotel in Kathmandu. Our team collects your passport copies for permit processing.

Day 2

Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu

Meals: B / L / D

We conduct a thorough equipment inspection at our Kathmandu headquarters, checking down suits, technical hardware, and oxygen regulators. We also visit the Ministry of Tourism for official expedition briefings.

Day 3

Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding

Meals: B / L / D

We take an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla at 2,840 m. After meeting our porters, we begin walking down the Dudh Koshi valley to reach Phakding at 2,610 m.

Day 4

Trek to Namche Bazaar

Meals: B / L / D

The trail crosses suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi river before entering Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. We then make the steep, sustained climb up to Namche Bazaar at 3,440 m.

Day 5

Rest in Namche Bazaar

Meals: B / L / D

We spend today resting and acclimatising in Namche. We take a morning hike towards the Everest View Point at 3,880 m to assist with red blood cell adaptation.

Day 6

Trek to Debuche via Tengboche Monastery

Meals: B / L / D

We contour out of Namche high above the Imja Khola, descending to Phunki Thanga before climbing through rhododendron forest to the monastery at Tengboche at 3,867 m. We continue a short distance further down to Debuche at 3,820 m.

Day 7

Trek to Dingboche

Meals: B / L / D

We cross the Imja Khola at Pangboche, passing stone walled fields and yak pastures as the valley widens. We arrive in Dingboche at 4,410 m by early afternoon.

Day 8

Acclimatisation day in Dingboche

Meals: B / L / D

To further our altitude adaptation, we undertake a morning hike up Nagarjun Hill, reaching an elevation of approximately 5,100 m before returning to Dingboche for the night.

Day 9

Trek to Lobuche

Meals: B / L / D

The trail climbs past the memorials at Dughla before ascending the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. We settle into our lodge at Lobuche at 4,910 m.

Day 10

Trek to Everest Base Camp

Meals: B / L / D

We navigate the rocky rubble of the Khumbu Glacier, crossing undulating ice and moraine ridges to reach Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m, which serves as our home for the coming weeks.

Day 11

Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1

Meals: B / L / D

We begin our rotation schedule, moving through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and Camp 2 at approximately 6,400 m to test our physiological response to extreme altitude.

Day 12

Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1 continued

Meals: B / L / D

We spend time at Camp 2, sleeping at altitude and allowing our bodies to adjust before descending back to Base Camp for rest and recovery.

Day 13

Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp

Meals: B / L / D

A mandatory rest period at Base Camp to hydrate, consume fresh nutrition, and monitor health metrics with our expedition doctor.

Day 14

Lhotse climbing Period - Rest and Weather Monitoring

Meals: B / L / D

We review high-altitude weather forecasts and check fixed-rope conditions on the Western Cwm while resting at Base Camp.

Day 15

Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2 Prep

Meals: B / L / D

We prepare our personal gear, oxygen cylinders, and technical equipment for our second rotation up the mountain.

Day 16

Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2

Meals: B / L / D

We ascend directly to Camp 2, moving efficiently through the changing ice structures of the Khumbu Icefall.

Day 17

Lhotse climbing Period - Push to Camp 3

Meals: B / L / D

We climb the steep Lhotse Face from Camp 2, establishing our presence and sleeping at Camp 3 at approximately 7,200 m using supplemental oxygen as planned.

Day 18

Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp

Meals: B / L / D

After successfully reaching Camp 3 and completing our second rotation, we descend all the way back down to Base Camp.

Day 19

Lhotse climbing Period - Recovery

Meals: B / L / D

Low-activity day at Base Camp dedicated to sleeping, eating, and recovering muscle mass after high-rotation fatigue.

Day 20

Lhotse climbing Period - Base Camp Rest

Meals: B / L / D

We review the long-range jet stream forecasts to identify potential weather windows suitable for a summit push.

Day 21

Lhotse climbing Period - Equipment Check

Meals: B / L / D

Our Sherpa team checks all radios, masks, regulators, and high-altitude tents in preparation for the final phase.

Day 22

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

We remain on standby at Base Camp, keeping our packs ready while watching wind speeds aloft.

Day 23

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Active rest walks around Base Camp moraine to maintain light circulation without depleting energy stores.

Day 24

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Briefings with our lead guides regarding route conditions, rope fixing updates, and team deployment schedules.

Day 25

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Continued monitoring of meteorological data as we wait for high-altitude winds to drop.

Day 26

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Extra hydration and nutrition intake at Base Camp to build energy reserves before the climb.

Day 27

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Equipment sorting and final distribution of group gear among our climbing Sherpas.

Day 28

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Rest day at Base Camp with light stretching and mental preparation for the demanding days ahead.

Day 29

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Route update meetings with other expedition leaders operating on the Geneva Spur.

Day 30

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Final gear checks and battery recharging at our solar-powered Base Camp station.

Day 31

Lhotse climbing Period - Standby

Meals: B / L / D

Weather window analysis confirms favorable conditions approaching for the upcoming week.

Day 32

Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Push Departure (Camp 2)

Meals: B / L / D

We officially launch our summit push, leaving Base Camp and climbing through the Khumbu Icefall to sleep at Camp 2.

Day 33

Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 3

Meals: B / L / D

We ascend the Western Cwm and climb the fixed lines up the Lhotse Face to reach Camp 3 at 7,200 m.

Day 34

Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 4

Meals: B / L / D

We climb from Camp 3 across the Geneva Spur to establish ourselves at Camp 4, the final high camp situated at approximately 7,950 m.

Day 35

Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Day

Meals: B / L / D

We leave Camp 4 under pre-dawn darkness, climbing the steep snow slopes before entering the narrow 150 m summit gully that leads directly to the 8,516 m summit of Lhotse, afterwards descending back to Camp 4 or Camp 3.

Day 36

Lhotse climbing Period - Descent to Camp 2

Meals: B / L / D

We continue our descent down the Lhotse Face and Western Cwm, reaching the relative safety and comfort of Camp 2.

Day 37

Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp

Meals: B / L / D

We pack up our high camps and complete the descent through the Khumbu Icefall back to Base Camp, concluding the main climbing phase.

Day 38

Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve

Meals: B / L / D

Built-in reserve day at Base Camp used in case summit attempts are delayed by high winds or adverse weather.

Day 39

Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve

Meals: B / L / D

Secondary reserve day allocated for team recovery or unexpected schedule adjustments.

Day 40

Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve

Meals: B / L / D

Additional contingency day ensuring maximum flexibility for our summit window.

Day 41

Lhotse climbing Period - Contingency

Meals: B / L / D

Final weather contingency day at Base Camp before packing down expedition infrastructure.

Day 42

Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp

Meals: B / L / D

Full team celebration and rest following successful summit rotations.

Day 43

Lhotse climbing Period - Gear Sorting

Meals: B / L / D

Sorting high-altitude gear, oxygen cylinders, and personal belongings for porter transport.

Day 44

Lhotse climbing Period - Packing

Meals: B / L / D

Dismantling dining and communications tents at Base Camp.

Day 45

Lhotse climbing Period - Final Camp Organization

Meals: B / L / D

Final cleanup preparation and waste sorting according to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee guidelines.

Day 46

Clearing up base camp

Meals: B / L / D

We complete the pack-down of Base Camp, ensuring all rubbish, equipment, and human waste containers are cleared from the glacier.

Day 47

Trek back to Pheriche

Meals: B / L / D

Leaving Base Camp behind, we trek down the moraine past Lobuche and Dughla, descending into the windy valley of Pheriche at 4,240 m.

Day 48

Trek back to Namche

Meals: B / L / D

We retrace our steps down past Pangboche and Tengboche, climbing the final hill back to Namche Bazaar for a celebratory evening.

Day 49

Trek back to Lukla

Meals: B / L / D

We make the long descent out of Sagarmatha National Park, crossing suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi to reach Lukla for our final night on the trail.

Day 50

Back to Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel

Meals: B / L / D

We catch the morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, transferring to our hotel with the evening reserved for a team dinner.

Day 51

Free day in Kathmandu

Meals: B / L / D

A free day in Kathmandu to rest, shop for souvenirs, or enjoy the city at your own pace.

Day 52

Depart to the home country

Meals: B

We transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international flight home.

Inclusions

What’s included

Included

  • Airport pickup and drop-off in private vehicle
  • Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
  • All meals and teahouse accommodation during the trek
  • Fully supported Base Camp with dining and sleeping tents
  • Government mountaineering royalty and Sagarmatha permits
  • Experienced IFMGA guides and climbing Sherpas
  • Supplemental oxygen bottles, masks, and regulators for summit push

Not included

  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Nepal entry visa fee obtained upon arrival
  • Personal high-altitude mountaineering clothing and boots
  • Travel insurance covering high-altitude rescue up to 8,516 m
  • Tips for guides, porters, and kitchen staff

Before you go

Good to know

Prerequisite Experience

Climbers joining this expedition must have successfully summited at least one 7,000 m peak previously. Competence in moderate rock, ice, and snow climbing is mandatory.

Oxygen and Medical Support

We provide a dedicated allocation of oxygen bottles, masks, and regulators for the summit push, along with comprehensive medical kits and pulse oximeters monitored daily by our guides.

Permit Requirements

All necessary Government of Nepal mountaineering royalties, Sagarmatha National Park entry permits, and Local government levies are managed directly by our Kathmandu office.

Insurance Mandate

Participants must hold comprehensive travel and medical insurance that explicitly covers mountaineering up to 8,516 m, including helicopter rescue and repatriation.

Route

Route overview

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — route map

Altitude

Altitude profile

Annapurna Base Camp Trek via Poon Hill — altitude profile

Pack list

What to pack

  • 8000m Down SuitEssential

    Clothing

    Rated for extreme sub-zero temperatures.

  • Double Mountaineering BootsEssential

    Footwear

    Rigid soles compatible with step-in crampons.

  • Gore-Tex Shell Jacket and PantsEssential

    Clothing

    Waterproof and windproof outer layers.

  • Down Sleeping Bag (-40°C rated)Essential

    Camping

    Essential for high camps and Base Camp.

  • CramponsEssential

    Footwear

    12-point steel crampons fitted to double boots.

  • Mountaineering HarnessEssential

    Safety

    Adjustable alpine harness with gear loops.

  • Ice AxeEssential

    Safety

    Technical walking or mountaineering axe.

  • Headlamp with Extra BatteriesEssential

    Safety

    High-lumen LED lamp for pre-dawn summit starts.

  • High-Altitude Glacier GlassesEssential

    Clothing

    Category 4 protection with side shields.

  • Thermal Base LayersEssential

    Clothing

    Merino wool or synthetic moisture-wicking tops and bottoms.

Paperwork

Permits & paperwork

We arrange

Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.
  • Lhotse Climbing Permit

    Permit

    Official Ministry of Tourism mountaineering royalty for Lhotse.

  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit

    Permit

    Conservation area permit required for entering the Khumbu region.

  • Local Government Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Permit

    Permit

    Local rural municipality levy for trekkers and climbers.

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

What technical skills are required for Lhotse?

You must be comfortable climbing on moderate-to-steep rock, hard blue ice, and vertical snow using crampons and ascenders, particularly on the Lhotse Face and the final summit gully.

How many oxygen bottles are provided?

We allocate a standard package of oxygen bottles for each climber and personal Sherpa, ensuring an adequate supply for the rotation schedule and summit push.

What is the tent arrangement at Base Camp?

Each climber receives a spacious individual personal tent at Base Camp, alongside heated communal dining tents, communication tents, and dedicated shower facilities.

How are medical emergencies handled on the mountain?

Our lead guides are trained in high-altitude rescue. We maintain portable hyperbaric chambers, medical oxygen at Base Camp, and have arrangements for rapid helicopter evacuation when weather permits.

What communications are available at Base Camp?

We provide satellite communication facilities and Wi-Fi access at Base Camp so you can stay in touch with family throughout the expedition.

What type of food is served during the climb?

Our professional kitchen crew prepares fresh, hygienically handled meals at Base Camp, while teahouses along the trekking route offer a variety of local and western dishes.

Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.

Book your trip

Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 52 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.

October 2026
SMTWTFS

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