Lhotse Expedition via Everest Route
- 52 days
- extreme
- Up to 12
- Spring (April–May)
We lead a 52-day technical expedition to the 8,516 m summit of Lhotse, climbing via the Geneva Spur and the standard South Face route.
At a glance
Trip overview
Standing at 8,516 m, Lhotse is the world's fourth-highest mountain and shares its initial approach through the Khumbu Valley with Everest. While the early trekking stages follow the familiar trail past Namche Bazaar and Tengboche Monastery to Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m, the climb itself diverges sharply onto the Geneva Spur. From here, our route attacks the steep face leading to the final technical challenge: a narrow, 150 m gully guarding the summit ridge.
This 52-day expedition requires significant high-altitude mountaineering experience and a proven background on 7,000 m peaks. We build a comprehensive acclimatisation schedule into the itinerary, allowing ample time for rotations through the icefall and camps on the mountain before launching our summit bids.
Our logistics are managed directly by our experienced Sherpa team, who handle route-fixing, high-altitude nutrition, and oxygen supplies. We maintain strict safety protocols, ensuring comprehensive medical back-up and emergency evacuation plans are in place for every rotation.
Why this trek
Trip highlights
8,516 m Summit
Climb the world's fourth-highest peak via the classic South Face route and Geneva Spur.
Technical Gully Finish
Navigate the steep 150 m couloir leading directly to the narrow summit ridge.
Extended Base Camp
Establish a fully-supported base camp at 5,364 m with dedicated dining, communication, and sleeping tents.
Experienced Sherpa Team
Climb alongside our senior guides and climbing Sherpas with multiple 8,000 m summits.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel
Meals: B
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel
Meals: B
We welcome you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to our partner hotel in Kathmandu. Our team collects your passport copies for permit processing.
Day 2
Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu
Meals: B / L / D
Day 2
Welcome brief, Gear check and Official formalities in Kathmandu
Meals: B / L / D
We conduct a thorough equipment inspection at our Kathmandu headquarters, checking down suits, technical hardware, and oxygen regulators. We also visit the Ministry of Tourism for official expedition briefings.
Day 3
Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding
Meals: B / L / D
Day 3
Fly to Lukla & trek to Phakding
Meals: B / L / D
We take an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla at 2,840 m. After meeting our porters, we begin walking down the Dudh Koshi valley to reach Phakding at 2,610 m.
Day 4
Trek to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
Day 4
Trek to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
The trail crosses suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi river before entering Sagarmatha National Park at Monjo. We then make the steep, sustained climb up to Namche Bazaar at 3,440 m.
Day 5
Rest in Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
Day 5
Rest in Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
We spend today resting and acclimatising in Namche. We take a morning hike towards the Everest View Point at 3,880 m to assist with red blood cell adaptation.
Day 6
Trek to Debuche via Tengboche Monastery
Meals: B / L / D
Day 6
Trek to Debuche via Tengboche Monastery
Meals: B / L / D
We contour out of Namche high above the Imja Khola, descending to Phunki Thanga before climbing through rhododendron forest to the monastery at Tengboche at 3,867 m. We continue a short distance further down to Debuche at 3,820 m.
Day 7
Trek to Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 7
Trek to Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
We cross the Imja Khola at Pangboche, passing stone walled fields and yak pastures as the valley widens. We arrive in Dingboche at 4,410 m by early afternoon.
Day 8
Acclimatisation day in Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 8
Acclimatisation day in Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
To further our altitude adaptation, we undertake a morning hike up Nagarjun Hill, reaching an elevation of approximately 5,100 m before returning to Dingboche for the night.
Day 9
Trek to Lobuche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 9
Trek to Lobuche
Meals: B / L / D
The trail climbs past the memorials at Dughla before ascending the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier. We settle into our lodge at Lobuche at 4,910 m.
Day 10
Trek to Everest Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 10
Trek to Everest Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We navigate the rocky rubble of the Khumbu Glacier, crossing undulating ice and moraine ridges to reach Everest Base Camp at 5,364 m, which serves as our home for the coming weeks.
Day 11
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1
Meals: B / L / D
Day 11
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1
Meals: B / L / D
We begin our rotation schedule, moving through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 and Camp 2 at approximately 6,400 m to test our physiological response to extreme altitude.
Day 12
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1 continued
Meals: B / L / D
Day 12
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 1 continued
Meals: B / L / D
We spend time at Camp 2, sleeping at altitude and allowing our bodies to adjust before descending back to Base Camp for rest and recovery.
Day 13
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 13
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
A mandatory rest period at Base Camp to hydrate, consume fresh nutrition, and monitor health metrics with our expedition doctor.
Day 14
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest and Weather Monitoring
Meals: B / L / D
Day 14
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest and Weather Monitoring
Meals: B / L / D
We review high-altitude weather forecasts and check fixed-rope conditions on the Western Cwm while resting at Base Camp.
Day 15
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2 Prep
Meals: B / L / D
Day 15
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2 Prep
Meals: B / L / D
We prepare our personal gear, oxygen cylinders, and technical equipment for our second rotation up the mountain.
Day 16
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2
Meals: B / L / D
Day 16
Lhotse climbing Period - Rotation 2
Meals: B / L / D
We ascend directly to Camp 2, moving efficiently through the changing ice structures of the Khumbu Icefall.
Day 17
Lhotse climbing Period - Push to Camp 3
Meals: B / L / D
Day 17
Lhotse climbing Period - Push to Camp 3
Meals: B / L / D
We climb the steep Lhotse Face from Camp 2, establishing our presence and sleeping at Camp 3 at approximately 7,200 m using supplemental oxygen as planned.
Day 18
Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 18
Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
After successfully reaching Camp 3 and completing our second rotation, we descend all the way back down to Base Camp.
Day 19
Lhotse climbing Period - Recovery
Meals: B / L / D
Day 19
Lhotse climbing Period - Recovery
Meals: B / L / D
Low-activity day at Base Camp dedicated to sleeping, eating, and recovering muscle mass after high-rotation fatigue.
Day 20
Lhotse climbing Period - Base Camp Rest
Meals: B / L / D
Day 20
Lhotse climbing Period - Base Camp Rest
Meals: B / L / D
We review the long-range jet stream forecasts to identify potential weather windows suitable for a summit push.
Day 21
Lhotse climbing Period - Equipment Check
Meals: B / L / D
Day 21
Lhotse climbing Period - Equipment Check
Meals: B / L / D
Our Sherpa team checks all radios, masks, regulators, and high-altitude tents in preparation for the final phase.
Day 22
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 22
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
We remain on standby at Base Camp, keeping our packs ready while watching wind speeds aloft.
Day 23
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 23
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Active rest walks around Base Camp moraine to maintain light circulation without depleting energy stores.
Day 24
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 24
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Briefings with our lead guides regarding route conditions, rope fixing updates, and team deployment schedules.
Day 25
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 25
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Continued monitoring of meteorological data as we wait for high-altitude winds to drop.
Day 26
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 26
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Extra hydration and nutrition intake at Base Camp to build energy reserves before the climb.
Day 27
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 27
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Equipment sorting and final distribution of group gear among our climbing Sherpas.
Day 28
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 28
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Rest day at Base Camp with light stretching and mental preparation for the demanding days ahead.
Day 29
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 29
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Route update meetings with other expedition leaders operating on the Geneva Spur.
Day 30
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 30
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Final gear checks and battery recharging at our solar-powered Base Camp station.
Day 31
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Day 31
Lhotse climbing Period - Standby
Meals: B / L / D
Weather window analysis confirms favorable conditions approaching for the upcoming week.
Day 32
Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Push Departure (Camp 2)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 32
Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Push Departure (Camp 2)
Meals: B / L / D
We officially launch our summit push, leaving Base Camp and climbing through the Khumbu Icefall to sleep at Camp 2.
Day 33
Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 3
Meals: B / L / D
Day 33
Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 3
Meals: B / L / D
We ascend the Western Cwm and climb the fixed lines up the Lhotse Face to reach Camp 3 at 7,200 m.
Day 34
Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 4
Meals: B / L / D
Day 34
Lhotse climbing Period - Climb to Camp 4
Meals: B / L / D
We climb from Camp 3 across the Geneva Spur to establish ourselves at Camp 4, the final high camp situated at approximately 7,950 m.
Day 35
Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Day
Meals: B / L / D
Day 35
Lhotse climbing Period - Summit Day
Meals: B / L / D
We leave Camp 4 under pre-dawn darkness, climbing the steep snow slopes before entering the narrow 150 m summit gully that leads directly to the 8,516 m summit of Lhotse, afterwards descending back to Camp 4 or Camp 3.
Day 36
Lhotse climbing Period - Descent to Camp 2
Meals: B / L / D
Day 36
Lhotse climbing Period - Descent to Camp 2
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our descent down the Lhotse Face and Western Cwm, reaching the relative safety and comfort of Camp 2.
Day 37
Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 37
Lhotse climbing Period - Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We pack up our high camps and complete the descent through the Khumbu Icefall back to Base Camp, concluding the main climbing phase.
Day 38
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Day 38
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Built-in reserve day at Base Camp used in case summit attempts are delayed by high winds or adverse weather.
Day 39
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Day 39
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Secondary reserve day allocated for team recovery or unexpected schedule adjustments.
Day 40
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Day 40
Lhotse climbing Period - Weather Reserve
Meals: B / L / D
Additional contingency day ensuring maximum flexibility for our summit window.
Day 41
Lhotse climbing Period - Contingency
Meals: B / L / D
Day 41
Lhotse climbing Period - Contingency
Meals: B / L / D
Final weather contingency day at Base Camp before packing down expedition infrastructure.
Day 42
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 42
Lhotse climbing Period - Rest at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Full team celebration and rest following successful summit rotations.
Day 43
Lhotse climbing Period - Gear Sorting
Meals: B / L / D
Day 43
Lhotse climbing Period - Gear Sorting
Meals: B / L / D
Sorting high-altitude gear, oxygen cylinders, and personal belongings for porter transport.
Day 44
Lhotse climbing Period - Packing
Meals: B / L / D
Day 44
Lhotse climbing Period - Packing
Meals: B / L / D
Dismantling dining and communications tents at Base Camp.
Day 45
Lhotse climbing Period - Final Camp Organization
Meals: B / L / D
Day 45
Lhotse climbing Period - Final Camp Organization
Meals: B / L / D
Final cleanup preparation and waste sorting according to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee guidelines.
Day 46
Clearing up base camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 46
Clearing up base camp
Meals: B / L / D
We complete the pack-down of Base Camp, ensuring all rubbish, equipment, and human waste containers are cleared from the glacier.
Day 47
Trek back to Pheriche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 47
Trek back to Pheriche
Meals: B / L / D
Leaving Base Camp behind, we trek down the moraine past Lobuche and Dughla, descending into the windy valley of Pheriche at 4,240 m.
Day 48
Trek back to Namche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 48
Trek back to Namche
Meals: B / L / D
We retrace our steps down past Pangboche and Tengboche, climbing the final hill back to Namche Bazaar for a celebratory evening.
Day 49
Trek back to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
Day 49
Trek back to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
We make the long descent out of Sagarmatha National Park, crossing suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi to reach Lukla for our final night on the trail.
Day 50
Back to Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel
Meals: B / L / D
Day 50
Back to Kathmandu & transfer to the hotel
Meals: B / L / D
We catch the morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, transferring to our hotel with the evening reserved for a team dinner.
Day 51
Free day in Kathmandu
Meals: B / L / D
Day 51
Free day in Kathmandu
Meals: B / L / D
A free day in Kathmandu to rest, shop for souvenirs, or enjoy the city at your own pace.
Day 52
Depart to the home country
Meals: B
Day 52
Depart to the home country
Meals: B
We transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your international flight home.
Inclusions
What’s included
Included
- Airport pickup and drop-off in private vehicle
- Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
- Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
- All meals and teahouse accommodation during the trek
- Fully supported Base Camp with dining and sleeping tents
- Government mountaineering royalty and Sagarmatha permits
- Experienced IFMGA guides and climbing Sherpas
- Supplemental oxygen bottles, masks, and regulators for summit push
Not included
- International airfare to and from Kathmandu
- Nepal entry visa fee obtained upon arrival
- Personal high-altitude mountaineering clothing and boots
- Travel insurance covering high-altitude rescue up to 8,516 m
- Tips for guides, porters, and kitchen staff
Before you go
Good to know
Prerequisite Experience
Climbers joining this expedition must have successfully summited at least one 7,000 m peak previously. Competence in moderate rock, ice, and snow climbing is mandatory.
Oxygen and Medical Support
We provide a dedicated allocation of oxygen bottles, masks, and regulators for the summit push, along with comprehensive medical kits and pulse oximeters monitored daily by our guides.
Permit Requirements
All necessary Government of Nepal mountaineering royalties, Sagarmatha National Park entry permits, and Local government levies are managed directly by our Kathmandu office.
Insurance Mandate
Participants must hold comprehensive travel and medical insurance that explicitly covers mountaineering up to 8,516 m, including helicopter rescue and repatriation.
Route
Route overview
Altitude
Altitude profile
Pack list
What to pack
8000m Down SuitEssential
Clothing
Rated for extreme sub-zero temperatures.
Double Mountaineering BootsEssential
Footwear
Rigid soles compatible with step-in crampons.
Gore-Tex Shell Jacket and PantsEssential
Clothing
Waterproof and windproof outer layers.
Down Sleeping Bag (-40°C rated)Essential
Camping
Essential for high camps and Base Camp.
CramponsEssential
Footwear
12-point steel crampons fitted to double boots.
Mountaineering HarnessEssential
Safety
Adjustable alpine harness with gear loops.
Ice AxeEssential
Safety
Technical walking or mountaineering axe.
Headlamp with Extra BatteriesEssential
Safety
High-lumen LED lamp for pre-dawn summit starts.
High-Altitude Glacier GlassesEssential
Clothing
Category 4 protection with side shields.
Thermal Base LayersEssential
Clothing
Merino wool or synthetic moisture-wicking tops and bottoms.
Paperwork
Permits & paperwork
We arrange
Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.Lhotse Climbing Permit
PermitOfficial Ministry of Tourism mountaineering royalty for Lhotse.
Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
PermitConservation area permit required for entering the Khumbu region.
Local Government Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Permit
PermitLocal rural municipality levy for trekkers and climbers.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
What technical skills are required for Lhotse?
You must be comfortable climbing on moderate-to-steep rock, hard blue ice, and vertical snow using crampons and ascenders, particularly on the Lhotse Face and the final summit gully.
How many oxygen bottles are provided?
We allocate a standard package of oxygen bottles for each climber and personal Sherpa, ensuring an adequate supply for the rotation schedule and summit push.
What is the tent arrangement at Base Camp?
Each climber receives a spacious individual personal tent at Base Camp, alongside heated communal dining tents, communication tents, and dedicated shower facilities.
How are medical emergencies handled on the mountain?
Our lead guides are trained in high-altitude rescue. We maintain portable hyperbaric chambers, medical oxygen at Base Camp, and have arrangements for rapid helicopter evacuation when weather permits.
What communications are available at Base Camp?
We provide satellite communication facilities and Wi-Fi access at Base Camp so you can stay in touch with family throughout the expedition.
What type of food is served during the climb?
Our professional kitchen crew prepares fresh, hygienically handled meals at Base Camp, while teahouses along the trekking route offer a variety of local and western dishes.
Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.
Book your trip
Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 52 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.
Start dateTrip runs
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