Island Peak Ascent via Khumbu
- 15 days
- 6,189 m max
- strenuous
- Up to 12
- Spring (April–May) & Autumn (October–November)
We guide mountaineers up the 6,189 m summit of Island Peak, following the classic Khumbu approach with dedicated acclimatisation.
At a glance
Trip overview
We lead this 15-day climbing itinerary for mountaineers seeking their first Himalayan summit above 6,000 metres. Island Peak, locally known as Imja Tse at 6,189 m, sits isolated in the middle of a glacial sea, offering a challenging objective that combines high-altitude trekking with fundamental alpine climbing techniques.
Our route departs from Lukla, climbing steadily through the Dudh Koshi valley past Phakding to Namche Bazaar. We incorporate structured acclimatisation days in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche, including a high-altitude hike to Nagarjun Hill at 5,100 m, to prepare our team for the physical demands of the upper mountain.
The climbing phase moves from Island Peak Base Camp across moraines and snow slopes, navigating crevasses and a final exposed ridge to the summit. While technical demands are moderate, the altitude and sustained physical effort require solid physical conditioning and mental endurance from every participant.
Why this trek
Trip highlights
Summit 6,189 m Peak
We lead the final push across snow slopes and the exposed ridge to reach the summit of Imja Tse.
Khumbu Approach
We follow the classic trekking route through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche.
Sherpa Culture
We visit the monastery at Tengboche and meet local communities in traditional mountain settlements.
Everest Viewpoint Hikes
We ascend to the Everest View Hotel and Nagarjun Hill for expansive panoramas of Lhotse and Ama Dablam.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu
Meals: B
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu
Meals: B
Our representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport upon your arrival and escorts you to your hotel in Kathmandu. We use this afternoon to complete administrative checks and settle in.
Day 2
Kathmandu Preparation Day
Meals: B / L / D
Day 2
Kathmandu Preparation Day
Meals: B / L / D
We spend today conducting our official trip briefing, checking climbing gear, and allowing time for rest or final purchases in Thamel. Our lead guide reviews the ascent profile and safety procedures with our team.
Day 3
Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding
Meals: B / L / D
Day 3
Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding
Meals: B / L / D
We take an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla at 2,860 m. From the airstrip, we begin our gentle descent along the Dudh Koshi river past Cheplung to reach Phakding.
Day 4
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
Day 4
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
We cross several suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi, enter Sagarmatha National Park at Jorsale, and tackle the sustained uphill climb through pine forests to reach Namche Bazaar at 3,440 m.
Day 5
Namche Bazaar Acclimatisation
Meals: B / L / D
Day 5
Namche Bazaar Acclimatisation
Meals: B / L / D
We spend the day hiking up to the Everest View Hotel at 3,880 m to encourage red blood cell production, returning to Namche in the afternoon to visit the Sherpa Culture Museum.
Day 6
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 6
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Meals: B / L / D
Our trail contours above the gorge before dropping to the Dudh Koshi river at Phunki Tenga. From there, we climb steadily through rhododendron forests to reach Tengboche at 3,860 m and its prominent monastery.
Day 7
Tengboche to Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 7
Tengboche to Dingboche
Meals: B / L / D
We descend past Debuche, cross the Imja River, and walk through Pangboche amongst ancient mani stones. The valley widens as we approach the summer settlement of Dingboche at 4,410 m.
Day 8
Dingboche Acclimatisation to Nagarjun Hill
Meals: B / L / D
Day 8
Dingboche Acclimatisation to Nagarjun Hill
Meals: B / L / D
We ascend the steep slopes of Nagarjun Hill to an altitude of 5,100 m, gaining crucial high-altitude experience before descending back to Dingboche to rest for the night.
Day 9
Dingboche to Island Peak Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 9
Dingboche to Island Peak Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We leave Dingboche and follow the wide Imja Valley beneath the massive walls of Lhotse. Continuing along lateral moraines, we establish our camp at Pareshaya Gyab, the Island Peak Base Camp at 5,240 m.
Day 10
Base Camp to High Camp and Training
Meals: B / L / D
Day 10
Base Camp to High Camp and Training
Meals: B / L / D
We move our gear to High Camp if conditions permit, or conduct a pre-climbing training session at Base Camp where our guides instruct on crampon use, ascender handling on fixed ropes, and glacier travel.
Day 11
Summit Day: Island Peak and Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 11
Summit Day: Island Peak and Return to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We start before dawn, climbing rock gullies and navigating snow slopes, crevasses, and the final exposed ridge to reach the 6,189 m summit. After taking in the views, we descend carefully back to Base Camp.
Day 12
Base Camp to Pangboche
Meals: B / L / D
Day 12
Base Camp to Pangboche
Meals: B / L / D
We pack up our camp and retrace our steps down the Imja Valley, descending through Chhukung and Dingboche to reach the lower altitude and thicker air of Pangboche.
Day 13
Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
Day 13
Pangboche to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
We descend through Tengboche, cross the suspension bridge over the Dudh Koshi, and make the final climb back into the bustling trading hub of Namche Bazaar.
Day 14
Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
Day 14
Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
Our final day of trekking follows the familiar trail down through Jorsale and Phakding, completing the long descent back to the airstrip at Lukla for our final night in the mountains.
Day 15
Fly to Kathmandu
Meals: B
Day 15
Fly to Kathmandu
Meals: B
We board our morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, where our transport transfers you to your hotel for a final evening and departure preparations.
Inclusions
What’s included
Included
- Airport transfers on arrival and departure
- Twin-share hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
- Teahouse and tented accommodation during the trek and climb
- All meals (breakfast, lunch, dinner) on trek and climb
- Experienced climbing guides and porters
- Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and local fees
- Group climbing gear including ropes and ice screws
- Domestic flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
Not included
- International airfare to and from Nepal
- Nepal entry visa fee
- Travel insurance covering high-altitude rescue up to 6,500 m
- Personal climbing equipment and apparel
- Tips for guides and support staff
- Personal expenses such as hot showers, battery charging, and Wi-Fi
Before you go
Good to know
Acclimatisation and Safety
We schedule structured rest and acclimatisation days in Namche Bazaar and Dingboche. Our lead guides monitor heart rates and oxygen saturation levels daily, and carry pulse oximeters and medical-grade oxygen kits.
Technical Experience
While Island Peak is considered an entry-level Himalayan climb, participants must be comfortable walking on crampons and using an ascender on fixed ropes. We conduct a mandatory training session before summit day.
Teahouse and Camping Accommodation
We accommodate you in local teahouses along the trekking route up to Dingboche. Once we reach Island Peak Base Camp, our support crew sets up dining and sleeping tents for the summit push.
Physical Preparation
We require participants to build solid cardiovascular endurance and leg strength several months prior to departure. Carrying a weighted pack on steep inclines is the most effective training method.
Route
Route overview
Altitude
Altitude profile
Pack list
What to pack
Sturdy mountaineering bootsEssential
Footwear
Must be crampon-compatible.
Down jacketEssential
Clothing
Rated for sub-zero temperatures.
Hardshell waterproof jacket and trousersEssential
Clothing
Gore-Tex or equivalent breathable fabric.
Thermal base layersEssential
Clothing
Merino wool or synthetic tops and bottoms.
Climbing harnessEssential
Safety
UIAA certified.
Mountaineering cramponsEssential
Footwear
Tested to fit your boots prior to the climb.
Ice axeEssential
Safety
Standard walking-length ice axe.
Ascender / JumarEssential
Safety
For ascending fixed ropes.
Sleeping bag (-20 °C rating)Essential
Camping
Essential for cold nights at base camp.
Valid passport and insurance documentsEssential
Documents
Must cover emergency helicopter evacuation above 6,000 m.
Paperwork
Permits & paperwork
We arrange
Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
PermitRequired for entering the protected area of the Khumbu region.
Local Government Area Permit
PermitLocal rural municipality fee for trekking and climbing in the Khumbu.
NMA Island Peak Climbing Permit
PermitOfficial Nepal Mountaineering Association permit required to summit Imja Tse.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
What climbing experience is required for Island Peak?
We require a strong level of physical fitness and basic mountaineering familiarity. We conduct a practical training session at base camp before the summit attempt to teach you how to use crampons, harnesses, and ascenders on fixed lines.
What is the success rate on this climb?
Our success rate is high due to our careful acclimatisation schedule and experienced Sherpa guides. However, weather conditions and individual acclimatisation can affect final summit bids.
How cold does it get on the mountain?
Temperatures at base camp and high camp regularly drop below freezing at night, often reaching -10 °C to -15 °C during spring and autumn climbing windows.
What permits do we need for Island Peak?
We arrange your Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and the local government climbing permit through the Nepal Mountaineering Association.
How much weight can porters carry?
Our porters carry a maximum of 20 kg total per duffel bag shared between two trekkers, with a 10 kg limit per person.
Can I charge my electronic devices on the trek?
Teahouses along the lower route offer electricity for charging devices for a small hourly fee, though power is limited at base camp.
Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.
Book your trip
Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 15 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.
Start dateTrip runs
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