Dhaulagiri Expedition and Technical Climb
- 44 days
- extreme
- Up to 12
- Spring (Apr–May) & Autumn (Sep–Oct)
We guide experienced mountaineers up the 8167 m summit of Dhaulagiri, the seventh highest peak in the Himalaya.
At a glance
Trip overview
Standing at 8167 m, Dhaulagiri is the seventh highest mountain in the world and presents a serious challenge for experienced mountaineers. Our 44-day expedition is designed for climbers who have already mastered technical terrain on 6000m and 7000m peaks and completed at least one 8000m summit.
We approach via Marpha and Yak Kharka, establishing our base camp for an extensive climbing window. Our team handles logistics, route fixing, and high-altitude safety management, allowing you to focus entirely on the physical and technical demands of the mountain.
Dhaulagiri is known for its isolation and unpredictable weather, making a self-sufficient and highly experienced team essential. We maintain a strong guide-to-client ratio and bring comprehensive rescue and medical infrastructure to every expedition.
Why this trek
Trip highlights
8167 m Summit
Stand atop Dhaulagiri, the highest peak in the Dhaulagiri Himalayan range.
Technical Ascent
Navigate complex glacier, rock, and snow routes suited for elite climbers.
Experienced Guides
Led by veteran Himalayan mountaineers with a proven safety record on 8000m peaks.
Comprehensive Safety
Equipped with dedicated backup oxygen and established high-altitude rescue protocols.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel
Meals: B
Day 1
Arrival in Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel
Meals: B
Our team welcomes you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Kathmandu. We use the afternoon for initial equipment checks and settling in.
Day 2
Preparation day in Kathmandu; Trip briefing with welcome dinner
Meals: B / L / D
Day 2
Preparation day in Kathmandu; Trip briefing with welcome dinner
Meals: B / L / D
Today we review expedition permits, check personal climbing gear, and hold a detailed safety briefing. We gather in the evening for a welcome dinner with the guiding team.
Day 3
Fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara & transfer to Hotel
Meals: B / L / D
Day 3
Fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara & transfer to Hotel
Meals: B / L / D
We take a short morning flight westward to Pokhara, enjoying views of the Annapurna range. After checking into our hotel, we finalize regional logistics.
Day 4
Drive from Pokhara to Marpha; overstay night in Marpha
Meals: B / L / D
Day 4
Drive from Pokhara to Marpha; overstay night in Marpha
Meals: B / L / D
We board a private vehicle for the drive from Pokhara to the Kali Gandaki valley, arriving in the historic Thakali village of Marpha for our overnight stay.
Day 5
Trek from Marpha to Yak Kharka
Meals: B / L / D
Day 5
Trek from Marpha to Yak Kharka
Meals: B / L / D
Leaving Marpha behind, we ascend steadily along the trail through alpine scrub and grazing pastures, gaining elevation toward Yak Kharka.
Day 6
Trek from Yak Kharka to Dhaulagiri Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 6
Trek from Yak Kharka to Dhaulagiri Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our upward trek over increasingly rugged terrain until we reach Dhaulagiri Base Camp, where we establish our primary operations for the weeks ahead.
Day 7
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 7
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Today marks the beginning of our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 8
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 8
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 9
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 9
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Our team works on ferrying loads and sleeping at higher elevations to build physiological adaptation for the summit push.
Day 10
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 10
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Weather monitoring and rest days at base camp alternate with technical training sessions on the lower glacier.
Day 11
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 11
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We maintain our routine of active rest, hydration, and monitoring weather forecasts while stationed at base camp.
Day 12
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 12
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Teams coordinate with lead guides to review rope-fixing progress and prepare supplementary oxygen systems.
Day 13
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 13
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 14
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 14
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Further acclimatisation rotations take our climbers up to Camp I and Camp II to prepare for the final push.
Day 15
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 15
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We use today for recovery, equipment maintenance, and reviewing nutritional plans for high camp operations.
Day 16
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 16
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Our climbing sherpas and guides assess snow conditions on the upper slopes and adjust fixed lines accordingly.
Day 17
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 17
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 18
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 18
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Additional rest and physiological monitoring take place as we wait for an optimal weather window.
Day 19
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 19
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 20
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 20
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Gear checks and psychological preparation occupy our time in camp as meteorological reports are analyzed.
Day 21
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 21
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 22
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 22
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Short walks around the base camp perimeter help maintain muscle tone without depleting energy reserves.
Day 23
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 23
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 24
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 24
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Briefings are held with all climbers to outline the anticipated summit push schedule once weather permits.
Day 25
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 25
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 26
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 26
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Final adjustments are made to personal climbing harnesses, descenders, and oxygen masks.
Day 27
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 27
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 28
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 28
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Rest and hydration remain our primary focus during these extended weather-dependent holding days.
Day 29
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 29
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 30
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 30
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Our lead guides coordinate with Kathmandu forecasting services to pinpoint the ideal summit window.
Day 31
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 31
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 32
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 32
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Final gear sorting takes place as we stand ready to move up the mountain when the weather clears.
Day 33
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 33
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 34
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 34
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Climbers rest in their tents and consume high-calorie meals to build reserves for the summit attempt.
Day 35
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 35
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We continue our rotation schedule, focusing on acclimatisation climbs, route preparation, and establishing higher camps on the mountain.
Day 36
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 36
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
We execute the summit push from high camps, navigating technical rock and snow to reach the 8167 m peak before descending safely.
Day 37
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 37
Climbing periods (Base Camp)
Meals: B / L / D
Additional contingency time is utilized for summit completions or safe descents back to base camp.
Day 38
Cleaning up base camp and prepare for descending
Meals: B / L / D
Day 38
Cleaning up base camp and prepare for descending
Meals: B / L / D
We pack up all high camps and base camp infrastructure, ensuring we leave no trace on the mountain before starting our trek out.
Day 39
Trek from Base Camp to Yak Kharka
Meals: B / L / D
Day 39
Trek from Base Camp to Yak Kharka
Meals: B / L / D
We retrace our steps down from base camp, descending through the rugged moraines back to Yak Kharka.
Day 40
Trek from Yak Kharka to Jomsom
Meals: B / L / D
Day 40
Trek from Yak Kharka to Jomsom
Meals: B / L / D
Our final day of trekking brings us down the valley to the administrative headquarters of Jomsom.
Day 41
Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara; Leisure day in Pokhara
Meals: B / L / D
Day 41
Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara; Leisure day in Pokhara
Meals: B / L / D
We take a morning mountain flight through the Kali Gandaki gorge to Pokhara and spend a restful afternoon by Phewa Lake.
Day 42
Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Meals: B / L / D
Day 42
Fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Meals: B / L / D
We board a domestic flight back to Kathmandu and transfer to our hotel for a comfortable evening.
Day 43
Leisure day in Kathmandu; Farewell dinner with the team
Meals: B / L / D
Day 43
Leisure day in Kathmandu; Farewell dinner with the team
Meals: B / L / D
Today is kept free for personal relaxation or souvenir shopping in Kathmandu, followed by our expedition farewell dinner.
Day 44
Final Departure
Meals: B
Day 44
Final Departure
Meals: B
We provide private airport transfers for your international departure flight home.
Inclusions
What’s included
Included
- Airport pickup and drop-off in private vehicles
- Hotel accommodation in Kathmandu and Pokhara on bed and breakfast basis
- All internal flights (Kathmandu-Pokhara, Pokhara-Jomsom return)
- Full board meals during trek and climbing period
- Experienced lead guides and climbing sherpas
- Necessary climbing permits and national park fees
- Group climbing equipment, tents, and fixed ropes
Not included
- International airfare
- Nepal entry visa fee
- Travel insurance covering high-altitude rescue up to 8500 m
- Personal climbing clothing and equipment
- Tips for guides, sherpas, and support staff
Before you go
Good to know
Fitness & Experience
This expedition is strictly for experienced mountaineers who have summited multiple 6000m and 7000m peaks, plus at least one 8000m peak. Technical competence in rock, snow, and glacier travel is mandatory.
Acclimatisation
Our 44-day schedule includes a generous 23-day weather and rotation window on the mountain. This allows for gradual physiological adaptation to extreme altitude above 8000 m.
Safety & Logistics
We maintain a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio on the mountain, supported by experienced Sherpa teams, supplemental oxygen, and established emergency evacuation plans.
Environmental Policy
We operate under strict leave-no-trace principles, ensuring all human waste and expedition equipment are packed out from base camp and upper camps.
Route
Route overview
Altitude
Altitude profile
Pack list
What to pack
Mountaineering Boots (8000m rated)Essential
Footwear
Double or triple insulated boots for extreme cold.
Down Suit (8000m rated)Essential
Clothing
One-piece goose down suit for high altitude.
Hardshell Jacket and PantsEssential
Clothing
Gore-Tex or equivalent waterproof outer layer.
Mountaineering HarnessEssential
Safety
Adjustable alpine climbing harness.
CramponsEssential
Footwear
Step-in steel crampons compatible with 8000m boots.
Ice AxeEssential
Safety
Technical mountaineering ice axe.
High Altitude Sleeping BagEssential
Camping
Rated to -40°C.
Headlamp with Extra BatteriesEssential
Safety
High-output LED headlamp with lithium batteries.
Valid Passport and Insurance DocumentsEssential
Documents
Must include high-altitude rescue coverage.
Paperwork
Permits & paperwork
We arrange
Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.Dhaulagiri Expedition Permit
PermitRequired government royalty for climbing Mount Dhaulagiri.
Annapurna Conservation Area Permit
PermitRequired entry permit for conservation areas along the approach.
TIMS Card
PermitTrekkers' Information Management System card for regional trekking.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
What climbing experience is required for Dhaulagiri?
Climbers must have previous ascents of multiple 6000m and 7000m peaks, plus at least one 8000m summit, alongside proven technical competence in rock and ice.
What is the guide-to-client ratio?
We maintain a 1:1 guide-to-client ratio on 8000m peaks, supplemented by additional senior guides and climbing sherpas.
How is emergency evacuation handled?
We maintain pre-arranged helicopter rescue protocols and carry comprehensive medical kits and supplemental oxygen at all camps.
What is the weather like during the climbing season?
Conditions vary from cold alpine winds to clear skies. We utilize dedicated meteorological forecasting to select the safest summit window.
Are meals provided at base camp?
Yes, our expedition cooks prepare full board, calorie-dense meals throughout your stay at base camp and higher camps.
What permits are included?
All necessary government climbing permits, national park entry fees, and local levies are included in the package.
Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.
Book your trip
Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 44 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.
Start dateTrip runs
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