Ama Dablam Expedition via Southwest Ridge
- 26 days
- 6,812 m max
- extreme
- Up to 12
- Autumn (Sep–Dec) & Spring (Mar–May)
We lead a 26-day technical mountaineering expedition to the summit of Mount Ama Dablam at 6,812 m in the Everest region.
At a glance
Trip overview
We organize this 26-day mountaineering expedition to Mount Ama Dablam, standing at 6,812 m in the Khumbu region of the Everest Himalaya. Recognized as one of the most technical and striking peaks in Nepal, the normal route follows the southwest ridge, requiring proficiency in mixed rock, ice, and steep snow climbing. Our team provides comprehensive logistical support, including experienced climbing Sherpas, base camp infrastructure, and high-altitude camp provisions.
This expedition suits experienced mountaineers who possess solid rock and ice climbing skills and previous high-altitude experience. The approach trek from Lukla passes through Phakding, Namche Bazaar, and Pangboche, allowing our team to acclimatise gradually before establishing base camp. We spend several weeks rotating through advanced base camp, Camp I, and Camp II to prepare for the final summit push.
Route conditions on Ama Dablam demand respect and precise technique. Climbers negotiate steep granite ridges, rocky bowls, and vertical ice sections fixed with ropes by our climbing sherpas. From the upper camps and the summit, our team gains expansive views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Thamserku, and surrounding Khumbu giants.
Why this trek
Trip highlights
Summit at 6,812 m
We reach the summit of Mount Ama Dablam via the classic southwest ridge.
Base Camp Setup
We establish fully supported base camp and high camps with dedicated cooking and dining infrastructure.
Technical Climbing
Our team navigates steep rock, ice, and mixed terrain using fixed ropes and high-altitude gear.
Khumbu Approach
We trek through Namche Bazaar and Pangboche for essential acclimatisation prior to climbing.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu (1,350 m)
Meals: B
Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu (1,350 m)
Meals: B
Our team welcomes you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel in Kathmandu. We use this day to check personal climbing equipment and complete expedition briefings.
Day 2
Kathmandu Preparation Day
Meals: B / L / D
Day 2
Kathmandu Preparation Day
Meals: B / L / D
We finalize official permits, review climbing logistics, and conduct final gear checks across our team in Kathmandu.
Day 3
Fly to Lukla (2,880 m) and trek to Phakding (2,610 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 3
Fly to Lukla (2,880 m) and trek to Phakding (2,610 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Our team boards an early morning flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. From Lukla, we descend past stone mani walls along the Dudh Koshi river to reach Phakding.
Day 4
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 4
Trek from Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Meals: B / L / D
The trail crosses suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi and climbs steadily through pine forests into Sagarmatha National Park. We make the steep final ascent to reach the trading hub of Namche Bazaar.
Day 5
Acclimatisation Day in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 5
Acclimatisation Day in Namche Bazaar (3,440 m)
Meals: B / L / D
We spend today resting and walking up to the Everest View Hotel and Khumjung village to assist our physiological adaptation to higher altitude.
Day 6
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche (3,860 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 6
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Pangboche (3,860 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Our trail contours above the Imja Khola, passing through Tengboche where we visit the historic monastery before descending into Pangboche.
Day 7
Base Camp Acclimatisation and Training
Meals: B / L / D
Day 7
Base Camp Acclimatisation and Training
Meals: B / L / D
We arrive at Ama Dablam Base Camp and spend the day reviewing technical rope techniques, safety protocols, and medical procedures with our lead guides.
Day 8
Walk to Advanced Base Camp (5,360 m) and Return
Meals: B / L / D
Day 8
Walk to Advanced Base Camp (5,360 m) and Return
Meals: B / L / D
Our team undertakes a training rotation up to Advanced Base Camp to test our gear and further our acclimatisation before returning to base camp.
Day 9
Rest and Preparation at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 9
Rest and Preparation at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We dedicate today to resting, hydrating, and preparing individual and group loads for the upcoming higher camp rotations.
Day 10
Trek via Dhulo Bukhing to Phang Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 10
Trek via Dhulo Bukhing to Phang Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Our team moves camp along the established trekking paths toward Phang Base Camp, setting up our secondary sleeping quarters.
Day 11
Route Reconnaissance to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 11
Route Reconnaissance to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Our climbing sherpas lead a reconnaissance push up to Camp I across rocky ground and boulder fields, returning to base camp for the night.
Day 12
Acclimatisation Rest Day at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 12
Acclimatisation Rest Day at Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We rest our muscles at base camp, consuming high-calorie meals prepared by our kitchen crew and checking weather forecasts.
Day 13
Ascent to Advanced Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 13
Ascent to Advanced Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We pack our rucksacks and climb back up to Advanced Base Camp, sleeping at higher elevation to reinforce our red blood cell production.
Day 14
Climb to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 14
Climb to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Our team scrambles up the rocky bowl and fixed lines leading to Camp I, where we spend our first night perched on the mountain.
Day 15
Route Reconnaissance to Camp II (5,750 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 15
Route Reconnaissance to Camp II (5,750 m)
Meals: B / L / D
We push past Camp I along the ridge, examining the technical mixed terrain leading toward Camp II before descending back to camp for rest.
Day 16
Descent to Base Camp for Extended Rest
Meals: B / L / D
Day 16
Descent to Base Camp for Extended Rest
Meals: B / L / D
Our team descends all the way to base camp to recover energy, sleep in lower altitude air, and wait for a favorable summit weather window.
Day 17
Base Camp Weather Monitoring and Preparation
Meals: B / L / D
Day 17
Base Camp Weather Monitoring and Preparation
Meals: B / L / D
We spend the day checking satellite weather reports, organizing oxygen cylinders, and reviewing team readiness.
Day 18
Trek Back to Advanced Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 18
Trek Back to Advanced Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
We begin our summit rotation by walking back up to Advanced Base Camp, carrying personal layers and sleeping bags.
Day 19
Climb to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 19
Climb to Camp I (5,700 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Our climbers move steadily up the fixed lines through the rocky ground to re-establish ourselves at Camp I.
Day 20
Climb from Camp I to Camp II (5,750 m)
Meals: B / L / D
Day 20
Climb from Camp I to Camp II (5,750 m)
Meals: B / L / D
We traverse the narrow ridge and technical rock towers, navigating the exposed sections that lead directly onto Camp II.
Day 21
Push from Camp II to Camp III
Meals: B / L / D
Day 21
Push from Camp II to Camp III
Meals: B / L / D
Our team climbs the steep mixed snow and ice slopes, navigating the snow tunnel and ridge to establish our high camp for the summit attempt.
Day 22
Summit Push to Mount Ama Dablam (6,812 m) and Descent
Meals: B / L / D
Day 22
Summit Push to Mount Ama Dablam (6,812 m) and Descent
Meals: B / L / D
We depart early in the morning, climbing past the massive hanging glacier on steep snow and ice to reach the summit, then descend carefully back to Camp II or Camp I.
Day 23
Descent from High Camps to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Day 23
Descent from High Camps to Base Camp
Meals: B / L / D
Our team packs up the remaining high-altitude gear and descends safely down the fixed lines all the way to base camp.
Day 24
Trek from Base Camp to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
Day 24
Trek from Base Camp to Namche Bazaar
Meals: B / L / D
We pack our expedition duffels and retrace our steps down the valley past Pangboche and Tengboche to reach Namche Bazaar.
Day 25
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
Day 25
Trek from Namche Bazaar to Lukla
Meals: B / L / D
Our team completes the final walking leg down the Dudh Koshi valley, arriving in Lukla to celebrate the conclusion of our climb.
Day 26
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Meals: B
Day 26
Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu
Meals: B
We board our morning flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, where we transfer to our hotel and gather for a farewell dinner.
Inclusions
What’s included
Included
- All airport and hotel transfers in Kathmandu
- Round-trip flights between Kathmandu and Lukla
- Four nights in 3-star hotel in Kathmandu with bed and breakfast
- All trekking and Ama Dablam climbing permit fees
- Experienced climbing Sherpas for the group
- Full board meals and teahouse arrangements to Base Camp
- All group camping equipment, kitchen, and dining tents
- Emergency medical oxygen and Gamow bag
Not included
- International airfare to and from Kathmandu
- Nepal entry visa fee
- Personal climbing clothes and technical equipment
- Travel and high-altitude rescue insurance
- Tips for climbing guides and support staff
- Climbing Sherpa summit bonus
Before you go
Good to know
Climbing Experience Required
Ama Dablam is a serious technical peak. Our team requires all participants to demonstrate prior mountaineering experience, proficiency with crampons and ice axes, and solid rope-handling skills on steep rock and ice.
Acclimatisation Schedule
Our 26-day itinerary incorporates structured rotations to Advanced Base Camp, Camp I, and Camp II. We strictly follow these incremental ascents to minimize the risks of high-altitude cerebral and pulmonary edema.
Weather & Mountain Conditions
High-altitude Himalayan weather can change rapidly. Our lead guides monitor satellite meteorological reports daily and make final decisions on summit attempts based on wind speeds and snow stability.
Insurance Requirements
Every participant must carry comprehensive travel insurance that explicitly covers technical mountaineering and emergency helicopter rescue up to 7,000 m.
Route
Route overview
Altitude
Altitude profile
Pack list
What to pack
Mountaineering bootsEssential
Footwear
Double boots rated for extreme cold and high altitude.
Alpine ice axeEssential
Camping
Technical ice axe suitable for steep snow and ice.
CramponsEssential
Footwear
Step-in or semi-rigid crampons compatible with your boots.
Climbing harnessEssential
Safety
UIAA-certified mountaineering harness.
Down suit or heavy down jacketEssential
Clothing
800-fill power down jacket or full suit for high camps.
Hard shell jacket and pantsEssential
Clothing
Waterproof and windproof GORE-TEX layers.
Mountaineering helmetEssential
Safety
UIAA/CE certified helmet for rockfall protection.
UV glacier glasses and gogglesEssential
Safety
Category 4 sun protection glasses and snow goggles.
Sleeping bag (-20°C to -30°C)Essential
Camping
Rated for extreme cold temperatures at high camps.
Insulated sleeping padEssential
Camping
High R-value sleeping mat for base camp and tents.
Trekking polesEssential
Safety
Adjustable poles with snow baskets for the approach.
Valid passport and insurance documentsEssential
Documents
Must include coverage for high-altitude mountaineering and rescue.
Paperwork
Permits & paperwork
We arrange
Handled in Kathmandu — nothing for you to do.Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
PermitRequired for entry into the Sagarmatha National Park conservation area.
Ama Dablam Climbing Permit
PermitOfficial mountaineering royalty permit issued by the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation.
Local Area Tax
PermitRural municipality levy for trekking and climbing in the Khumbu region.
Good to know
Frequently asked questions
What is the technical difficulty of climbing Ama Dablam?
Ama Dablam is classified as a highly technical peak. Climbers must negotiate steep vertical granite, exposed ridges, and mixed ice and snow climbing using fixed ropes.
Do I need personal climbing equipment?
Yes, participants must bring their own personal technical gear including boots, harnesses, helmets, and layered alpine clothing. Group gear like ropes and ice screws are provided.
What is the oxygen setup on the mountain?
We carry emergency medical oxygen and a Gamow bag for base camp and high camps. Supplemental climbing oxygen can be arranged upon request.
How many climbers per guide do you have?
We maintain a low climber-to-Sherpa ratio to ensure safety and personalized support during rotations and the summit push.
What happens if weather delays our Lukla flight?
We build adequate contingency time into our schedule, but weather delays can occasionally occur. We advise keeping a buffer on your international return dates.
Are permits included in the package?
Yes, all necessary national park entry fees, local levies, and Ama Dablam climbing permits are secured by our office.
Still have a question? Message us and our trip planner will reply within a working day.
Book your trip
Pick any start date on the calendar. We block the trip out over 26 days and confirm the plan with you before payment.
Start dateTrip runs
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